You should go here now....

http://coliecofashion.tumblr.com/

Apparently the grass is greener over there.

so..

second year is knackering....

crit.

Critical studies is stressing me out big time! im writing drafts for my essay, and its going ok i suppose, but i just find writing so hard to do! its been going on a while now, and eve though i started writing before many other people, i still feel like i should have started earlier and researched more. i am definatly going to do all the extra courses available next year to help me with my dissertation. i realllllly want a 1st degree when i leave this place, and i feel like my writing may let me down on this one, as im sure it does with many people, especially on a visual course, its hard to switch from looking at visually stimulating images to boring old black writing on the white page and actually having to think about what you want to write, and how you feel about something in depth, and how other writers have felt in the past and how this compares to how you feel. and dont even get me started on Harvard referencing!

skeletal...

my applied fashion design book is starting to scare me a little bit! apart from all the work, and money spent on printing all the pages, its all skeletal images of skulls and ribcages with half eaten flesh! im sure this would be something for the Paul Smith Black design team to get there teeth into! its a little bit different from the normal style but i feel it would bring a new darker edge to the collection, with a play on the name 'Black'.

Im the 1st to admit im not the most graphically fluent person, but im really enjoying working on the computers instead of good old pritt stick and scissors! you can just delete or move things a lot easier if things go wrong, and its such a clean finish. im thinking of getting the laser cutter involved in the making of the book to re-create a vintage lace feel to draw inspiration from.

enterprise and innovation

Dolly mixture Clothing is going strong!! i really like the idea of creating sustainable new and exciting clothes from a recycled and eco-responsible source. and im really enjoying working in the group i have too, i think w work fairly well together, I can see a bit more clearly now how a fashion business would run, and the one of the things that i think doesnt work, is working with so many people, as lovely as it is to be working a a group of 5 with your friends, i think communication breaks down a lot easier when there is more people involved, and also sometimes there just isnt enough jobs to keep everyone busy at the same time. Im a little bit worried about the actual presentation incase we miss anything important out, but we've got a while to iron out any creases!!!

Applied fashion

so im starting to get a little bit more into this project now, i really enjoy the research aspects towards the start of new briefs, i can really get myself into it and i love finding new and exciting images that inspire me to create something new, or to give an unexpected twist to an idea i had in mind. Im looking into how films can effect fashions, as Alice in wonderland seems to have effected things on a huge scale at the moment! Ive seen that the big film for next years release is a new pirates of the Caribbean, so im starting to look into pirate culture and the females role on the pirate ship, and im getting some awesome images and ideas. i just need to put in the physical work and get it all down on paper so i can start making my design book and start designing from it! above is a recent promo image from agent provocateur for the pirate collection FIT!

critical studies

Im a bit freaked out. just realised today that i have 4 weeks until my essay for this year has to be in, with my critical studies portfolio too. oh dear oh dear! I'm going to have to get a move on and really push this one i think. I really want to get a high 2:1 realistically for this, as its 20 credits this year, as opposed to 10 credits last year. Writing is not my strong point, but i have given my tutor some pieces of my writing to look over and give me feedback on, so at least i will have something to work on. I have all my books out too, so all i really need to do now is actually start. They do say that the first 100 words is the hardest. 

research in Manchester.

I popped along to Manchester for the day on today to meet my good friend Sarah Davies, and i took the oppertunity to do some research for the project that we have just got the brief for. We have to make a design manual with all the graphics, information etc needed to make a whole collection from. i chose the designer Paul Smith BLACK.(womenswear) to aim my book at, so above are some photos from the inside of a concession in Selfridges. the season the book will be for is s/s11 so i need to do some further research into themes. i am thinking lace, the naked body, greys, dusty pinks, hazy turquoises.... well we shall see! 

James Rotherham sent me a link.

My friend James sent me a link to a designer he has been looking at, Raffaele Ascione, and it was nice to see that it wasn't a graduate of St.Martins, or LCF blah blah as i thought it was at a first glance. He Actually studied at the UCA in Rochester. well maybe there is hope for us all not studying in London!

To be honest i thought some of his collection pieces still look a little immature but i found his illustration work inspiring. I like the use of photography incorporated into the drawings in some of them, and i like how the line is continuous. 

I think i need to work on my illustration work as its not my strongest attribute! maybe I'll do a few practice drawings to get me in the mood. 

So last night i stayed up late trying to make a start on written work for my portfolio. Below is my first draft of a small piece of writing. I looked at a Guardian article on Kate Moss and her affect on Pro Ana groups and i looked at a piece of text by J.Craik, called 'The face of fashion'. I tried to use the triangulation method when writing that James Beighton has been telling us about.... i THINK i understand it, but who knows, I'm going to give him a copy to look over and give feedback. i really wan to improve on my writing skills in preparation for my dissertation next year, and practice makes perfect!!

Crit models draft

Kate Moss is, at the moment worth $72 million (Sunday times rich list 2009) since being scouted by Storm fashion agency in 1984 she has increasingly become a role model and an idol of her time. Kate Moss told researchers in an online interview in November 2009 that ‘Nothing tastes as good as skinny feels’ which caused many people to asks questions about her intellect, values, and compassion for her impressionable fans. Naomi Campbell stated:

‘People only take models at face value...we are women too; we have feelings.
When you have a very visual job, your appearance is taken to be the most important thing about you’ (quoted by L.-A. Jones 1992: 10)

This suggests that behind the scenes there is a struggle of power and individuality and for models and some want to be recognised as the person they are behind the face or the body. Not to forget that Naomi Campbell is considered a powerful model, with big contracts, and has earned her right to fight and to be listened to. Naomi Campbell does not want to be taken as face value and statements like the above quote from Kate Moss are only taking steps backwards in this war, and pro anorexia groups look up to Kate Moss as a role model, and statements like ‘Nothing tastes as good as skinny feels’ is dangerous.

One user of a pro anorexia website commented on the quote saying: ‘ she’s making unhealthy attitudes and behaviours seem somehow attractive’ (cited Guardian.co.uk 20/11/09, Alexandra topping) Kate Moss is visually attractive and her fans take on anything she says as attractive. Moss has grown up in the modelling industry and she may not know better, this comes from an industry that thrives on young looking women to sell garments; Moss has lived with this for twenty-six years and possibly moulded her personality into someone who thinks its ok to fuel anorexic thoughts. In the fashion world perfected beauty sells.
‘most of the successful models have conformed to western stereotypes of beauty, because in every country, blonde hair and blue eyes sell’ (Craik, the face of fashion, super models and super bodies)
If this fact has made Kate Moss who she is, then others will catch on to this. Moss has to keep her body skinny, toned, her face fresh, her hair and style perfect, just to keep her job and high profile. This then translates into other people’s lives that are affected by the media surrounding Moss. They feel they need to become skinnier, more toned etc to keep friends and status. The manipulative media can make insecure women feel they need to change themselves to be accepted socially.

But it comes to light that even models aspire to be more ‘perfect’:
They seem to be chronically dissatisfied with there looks. Even supermodel Cindy Crawford said, “ Its hard doing the runway show. You’re surrounded by the forty most beautiful women in the world, you see all your own imperfections and none of theirs”’(Craik, the face of fashion 1994, Original quote by Rudolph 1991: 74)
Many Models turn to cosmetic surgery to try and perfect the look they need to become more employable, this in return means they are not natural, and teenage girls looking at the models in the newspaper cannot achieve the look, which makes the cycle even more vigorous and more people get hurt.
Women aged between twelve and twenty are at the highest risk of developing anorexia.
‘At the age of forty, Lisa Taylor was reemployed by Calvin Klien, after she chided him for employing young models to promote clothes aimed at older women. The ploy was highly successful.’ (Craik, 1994 The face of fashion)
This could be interpreted as Taylor being greedy and not wanting to loose her job as a model now that she has aged. It could also be seen that there is a shift in peoples thinking and is a positive move forwards, that models do not have to have perfect skin and to be under twenty years old to sell clothes. This could be positive in that less young girls would feel the need to starve themselves to gain perfection, as there is less media pressure.
‘Liberal democrat MP Lynne Featherstone said the storm created by Moss’s comments reflected a desire for change in society’ (Guardian.co.uk 20/11/09)
Moss should take responsibility as a role model for teenagers across the world and not fuel pro anorexia groups with more statements that are harmful to themselves and the fashion industry. Moss comes across to the pubic as having no personality; she only has her looks.
‘Because you exist through others’ eyes. When they stop looking at you, there’s nothing left.’(Quoted by Rudolph 1991: 75 in Craik, 1994 The face of fashion)

800 word count at the moment.

mmmm guilty pleasure....

I've been making some leather bags for the marketing week and Tout Nouvou. And I've loved playing around with the laser cutter making heart & crown shapes. They are lined with end of line Liberty cottons too, which are soooo beautiful it hurts! >_<

I've called them the 'pastry cutter' bags, and the inspiration comes from the garment i made from the last project, childish humor and innocence that just oozes fun.  

They are eco-conscious made from remnant leather & end of line cotton, they also have re-used vintage button fastening.

SWEET!

Its nice to see the work payed off...

I got a big fat 79 for my project that was handed in last week. This is my best mark to date and it feels amazing that the work put in is recognized. the main points of my tutorial with Gemma were that my garment was creased and had a few marks on it. but the pattern cutting and sewing was of a very good standard. Gemma also seemed impressed that i had printed my own fabric to give it an individual look.

TIME TO CELEBRATE! 

Critical studies essay.

Im getting quite into crit at the moment, i think its better that we are more free to choose our topic this year for the essay (although, don't get me wrong, writing an essay still scares the sh*t out of me, its never been one of my strong points.) But i have decided to make a big effort this year, i really want to aim for a high 2:1 who knows, even a first...maybe??? ha! So i went to the library and took out lots of books to help me on my way. i feel a headache coming on already with all this reading to do, but at least its something I'm interested in. I am going to write about shopping at independent designers will make a positive impact on the environment due to the amount of CO2 complications there are dealing with mass production, the high street & disposable fashion. I've not really got to writing my question yet, but at least i have a theme. 

Over reading week I am going to concentrate on the portfolio aspect of critical studies, it was also give me the much needed practice for the essay.

Hand in.

I handed in my project this afternoon and i think the finished result was very professional. It was the first time i have done a technical package to send off for manufacture, and the thought of doing it was daunting, but i managed with illustrator (in the end) and the finished result is amazing, i surprised myself in fact that i even managed to get it finished. I do think that i was very organized in this project though, more so than ever, so maybe I'm learning! 

Things i have improved on in this project:

• time keeping
• professionalism
  
• design
• research practices
  

Things i need to improve further:

• Neatness when sewing
• Finishing the garment, Steaming/removing marks etc.

Oh my!

.... how could i forget, today we had our enterprise presentation (P.E.S.T analysis...oh the joy!) but Bridget sat in on the end part, and her and Angie told us about something AMAZING...

The uni are putting on a craft/design fair for three days in April, and students can make things to sell and promote themselves at it. Its my short term dream come true! ha! It will be set out like a shop, not a market, which will give it a sense of a higher market level, it will be open to the public and the media will be invited as will other 'important people'. Hopefully i will make some well needed cash, and get my name out there.

So now i need to make some more designs, labels, business cards, cv's........

People tree.

Emma Watson has just launched her People Tree collection today, and in in love with the fact that they are getting more and more high profile people involved in the company that is really trying, and succeeding in creating sustainable fashion. The designs are pretty fab too! and not very expensive, the dress above (which i reallllly want) is £28. amazing!

'green pants'

Itchy!

I went to York yesterday with the parents...

...and i found this really cool vintage place http://deepvintageclothing.wordpress.com/ I really liked this place! i always this that vintage places would do so much better if they actually sorted through all the stuff they had and put it into sections.... yes it may be fun to trawl through and be so happy when you get an amazing find! but i much prefer to see things all in a nice rail in colour sections, ready for me to pick up and buy when i like something. I think ill be back there some time soon (well, when i have more Moolah...)

Knickers.

I've used the left over fabric that i printed to make my garment for the current project to make some knickers. These are not finished yet, but you get the idea. I've played around with the pattern too to try and improve the fit. I feel another craft fair coming on.

Tout Nouvou.

We had a presentation today from two third year students from Huddersfield uni that have set up there own business to promote new designers on a website by selling there stuff for them, the designer negotiates a wholesale price they want for it, and if it sells in a six month time period they get that price, and the two girls get two and a half mark up on it for themselves. I really like this idea but im not sure my designs are suitable for the designer diffusion market they are aiming for. I still eft them my details and i will chat to them and see if they will still give it a go with me, i could tweak my designs too to fit in more with this higher market level. I want to make sure that i use sustainable sources, end of line fabrics, or recycled fabrics in my designs, as this is close to my heart and something i dont want to give up on, even if they want me to, its what makes my designs special. I cant bloody wait to sell my stuff though! Its what ive always wanted to do!

Designing.

I've been doing a bit of designing on the stand and sampling this week, i think the design part counts for a lot in this project (well 20% is research and design, but i think it will be heavily weighted on the designing)  so I'm trying to do as much as i can this week. I like designing on paper, and i find it a bit effort to make up samples and put them on the stand, although i always find i get so much more out of doing this, note to self: make the effort to do this more!

Fabric creation!

above are some pictures and the fabric printing in the digital print room. I'm really glad i had an induction in the printing rooms, i think this will come in useful especially in 3rd year if i want to create my own fabric again. I used heat dispersal inks because i wanted to use a synthetic fabric for the lining. It was first printed by the machine onto a paper that transferes to the fabric when put under the heat press at about 200 degrees for about 40 seconds. I love the results but i did some how manage to smudge one small part of it right in the middle. Not bad for my first go though. I WILL BE DOING THIS AGIAN! 

Research

Just a few of my research pages from the project. I know its only 10 credits but i feel like I'm doing as much work as if it was 20. hard core! i really enjoy the research parts of projects though, finding inspiration and colours i can use. I've started a little designing too and its going really well.

Back to it.

just getting back into uni work now, im a bit scared to think we only have 3 weeks (and 2 days a week at that) on this new project, and we have to research, design, make and do flats, patterns, anda technical package or the collection. oh the joys!

I am going to do something a little different this time round too, im going to make a jumpsuit/playsuit thats casually tailored. its going to be hard but i really want to push myself forwards. i am also printing my own fabric for the lining this afternoon, ill let you know how it goes! I've never done anything like that before, so that will be fun! ive drawn the image out that will be repeated and printed, as you can see. It's for the season s/s11 and i think animal prints will still be around, but in a cuter, more Laura Ashley way. im really excited to see how it comes out :)

Work experience.

I have had a reply to an email for work experience based in Leeds!

Hi Nicole, Yes that sounds fine. I take on unpaid work experience students periodically. I can’t guarantee the work is exciting as what you will be working on depends on the project at the time you are with us. We do a lot of bespoke work so it is client based, rather than putting together collections, and due to eh nature of the work is often hand sewing so you will need good needle skills.

If you want to pop in and see me for a chat that will be fine. When are looking to come and work

Regards

dawn

so I'll have to get back to her ASAP :)

LouLou loves DavidDavid

 Lou Lou loves you in one of my favorite knicker designers. and here are some snaps of her collaboration with DavidDavid (who sells in Dover street market). I think its just wonderful.

SLEEK magazine.

So i was browsing F.Tape and i came across this lovely magazine and i just want to eat it up!! the model is considered a plus sized model in the fashion industry, (a 42 european size) but i think she looks amazing! The photographer is Bill Dugin and wanted to show the resemblance women have to food. nom nom!!

very exciting news!!!

I've been asked to design and make a wedding dress for my cousin thats getting married in 18 months. i was scared to say yes at first, with all the work involved, but i couldn't resist an opportunity like this!!! i'm going to have to start collecting fabric samples and prices, look at wedding dresses for design ideas, mock up patterns, toils, teach myself some of the skills involved that i don't know how to do yet, and make the actual dress! AAARRGGHHHH!!!!

result!

I got my results back for tailoring process's, and i got a big fat 73!! woop woop!!! all my hard work before christmas paid off! and i'm so glad i did put the extra hours in and got a 1st. i really want to average a decent 1st this year.

It was also the 1st day bak after christmas and we had an enterprise lecture. It was pretty scary, talking about tax rates and how they differ and how much the government take off of us! its crazy!

I have a lot of paper work stuff to get done for enterprise, i don't want to get left behind in this one, it seems to be dragging out too long and i am loosing interest to be honest, for a 10 credit module it is lasting along time, but i just need to get my head around it and ill get myself on track.

Critical studies tomorrow, and we are meant to have thought of a question to answer for our essay. any suggestions because i don't have a clue?!?!?!? something on sustainability.... but i'm not sure yet.

i've found this new website...

http://theuniformproject.com/home/daily.html 

Its a girl who, with the help of a friend designed a dress, make 7 copies of it, (one for everyday of the week) and wore it everyday for a year, addressing sustainability issues. She accessorizes the dress differently each day with donated, thrifted, bought second hand or things she had already to update the outfit to fit with fashions. I'm thinking of using this as an example in my critical studies essay (which i'm still not too sure what the subject will be exactly yet!) but i like the idea of it anyway!

shop report....

I've been going around leeds doing my shop report today and yesterday, it's quite hard getting back into it after the christmas break! its very difficult to do when its in the middle of the january sales, but i think i've done a fair amount. i think i want to base my designs for the upper mass market (Whistles, Reiss, All Saints etc...) as i normally design for the middle mass market, Topshop etc.. so it will be a nice change and broaden my knowledge and understanding of the differences. i have to keep thinking about my portfolio and how things will look, and to make sure i have a varied amount of work for it. Which is also why i chose to design menswear in the last project, because i had never done it before.

 I need to start applying for some work placements too. i have been doing some work on and off for a local lady called Lizzie who works with recycled fabrics (and is also a graduate of LCA) but for my actual work experience i think i would like to work for someone else so i have varied experience. i don't have any experience with large companies, only independent designers so far, and Lizzie has quite a few contacts in London (as she is doing her Masters there now.

Oh no's! christmas is over! >.<

Well it has been a lovely one :)

& look what my lovely boyfriend has bought me! i really want to wear my new Nanny State shoes, but i think i might have to wait until the snow has all gone! and how nice are the little hugging salt and pepper shakers? oh so nice! apparently i'm hard to buy for, but i think he's got it spot on :)

I just need to get rid of the new year hangover now, which is still going strong. had a blast though! time to get down to some work. shop reports, research, designs, blah, blah.......

critical studies and enterprise catch up.

i must say i am pleasantly surprised about how critical studies has gone this year. i feel like i am understanding the concepts a lot easier than i did last year, which is great, and i also feel like i want to learn this stuff a lot more than i used to to. i don't just want to be a fashion air head, i want it to mean something. i like the way it is taught this year, with lectures in the morning and then the more personal, and discussion based seminar in the afternoon with James. he basically explains things to us that we didn't quite get in the morning lecture and gives us something extra to talk about. my writing skills aren't very good, but i am hoping to improve them with the tasks he sets us. over the christmas break i need to think of a theme to write my essay on, at the moment i'm thinking of something to do with sustainability, but i have to narrow it down a little more really! 

also its been a while since i've updated this with stuff about the enterprise and innovation project. its going much better than i thought! i think our idea is really good, and we have made sure all our branding is strong, i feel like i have neglected the written work though, so thats something i need to catch up on!  we have called our label 'dolly mixture clothing' and we recycle old clothes sent to us by the customer, make them into something and send the garment back to them at a cost. recycled fashion!! and the sweet reference comes from the pick and mix styling of the website where you pick what neck line, hem line, sleeve styles you want your garment to have.

Tailoring tutorial.

so i had my tailoring tutorial today with Sue, and i was a little bit nervous. i didn't think this project was my strongest, and with the course leader marking it and giving me feedback i think i was allowed to be! But it actually went really well, better than i thought it would by far, she was really positive and supportive of my work, and she told me that i need to work on my drawing skills to lift my designs off the page a little, and to experiment with more media in my next project. i much prefer the mew way of giving feedback straight after the project has finished, as its all fresh in my mind and i can consciously work on correcting things straight away on the next project.

Millinery mark.

I got my mark back for my elective in millinery today, and to be honest i am really disappointed. i got a 62, which is Ok, its still a 2:1 but i felt i had put so much more effort in this year as i already knew she was a harsh marker from last year, but to achieve the SAME mark the second time, when i had worked harder and feel like i came up with a much fresher concept is a little upsetting. Its also hard to figure out where i went wrong exactly, because in the feedback i was given, only really positive words were used, such as 'amazing, fantastic, brilliant...' etc. i do want my mark to average out as a first in the second year, and this has brought my average down quite a bit, so i will have to work harder in other projects and push myself further to achieve this, which is only a good thing anyway. 

Wild Rose Seamstresses

the design fair at RED ERIC studios was yesterday with Jess, and it really brought me down a few pegs. i had this image in my head that it was going to go amazingly, and that i would sell a fair few things, but in fact it didn't go very well at all. i only sold one purse, and it was to my old house mate! oh joy! i think the way we laid out our stall was amazing, and the product was good, (even if there was not much choice with sizes) and i think me and Jess acted very professionally, but the customers were just not coming through the doors! i think this was because of the poor location of the studio and the lack of advertising. It was a shame as we both put so much work in before hand to make this as perfect as we could, which unfortunately has made me spend less time on my current tailoring project (but i will catch up i promise!!). I will continue to try with this little sideline project as i have really enjoyed designing and making clothes to sell in my own style, but i will have to work even harder in future to make it work! 

Tailoring proccess

It was our last taught session for the project tailoring process today, i think i have done a fair amount of work to be honest, after looking at other peoples i think i am a little ahead, although they could all work there asses off now in the next couple of weeks, and i have a lot to do for the 'UNIQUE BOUTIQUE' fair that is on the 6th of dec. i pretty much have to make a full collection (OK, a very simple and sellable collection, but a collection non the less!) but i have accounted for this, ad that is why i was working so hard through out the taught sessions so i could have a few days off from it. i am finding the samples part of this project fairly hard, as they have to be perfect, as its a skill based project. i think my ideas are good though for silhouettes, and i love my choice of fabrics, i'm working with leather and tweed a lot at the moment, i have a new found love!!!

Playhouse visit

We took a trip down to the west yorkshire playhouse costume department today to look at the tailored jackets they have, and wow, they do have many! they have a free lance tailor that is commissioned to make any tailored costumes they need, and some are ripped open so you can see all the details inside, its hard to believe that so much work is put into each jacket that you cant even see, hand stitches, padding, layering, all sorts! i took quite a few drawings (which i need to do more of, actual sketches) and lots of photos to help me remember how they are made, and what specific techniques were used, and when it was appropriate to use them. the lady who worked there was really nice too, and showed us how to find out when a jacket was made, and how the stock was organised. 

tailoring brief.

I also go my tailoring process's brief today. it looks a bit boring but im sure it will be ok, there was meant to be a designer teaching us this module, but he has backed out (obviously has better things to do than pass his skills on to others!) i have a shop report to do this week, that should be fun! trying to take photos and sketches in shops!! 

ive also got a few more photos from the last project ive just finished, of the photo shoot and the look book pages. 

Hand in, presentation and new brief.

my head has been a bit of a mess in the last couple of weeks, i've been snapping at people and i have been so easily agitated, but this seems to be the price i (or other people) have to pay when i am working solidly on a project because i want to get a good mark, make the most of the project, and, on top of that, work in a group. oh the joys!! i cant lie though, i love it really!

It was our group presentation that was the most hard work, getting everyone to work equally, and we all had our own vision of how it would look, read and work, but i think the result was pretty good if i do say so myself!!! we had props and a video (but don't get me started on the video, it was not how i wanted and to be honest, was just embarrassing as it lasted 2 whole minutes, and the music cut out half way through and we just stood there in silence as it carried on... oh the shame!) the feedback we received was pretty good though, so hopefully all the hard work will have paid off.

i am really pleased with my personal work in this project too, i think my research is fairly strong, although this is normally my strongest part, and is not in this project. i think this is because i had so much more to think about i started to neglect it a little. i was please with my look book too, its the first time i have done one of these and it looks so professional! i think i will take this to any interviews i have in the future because i am so pleased with it.