Friday, 26 February 2010

Applied fashion


so im starting to get a little bit more into this project now, i really enjoy the research aspects towards the start of new briefs, i can really get myself into it and i love finding new and exciting images that inspire me to create something new, or to give an unexpected twist to an idea i had in mind. Im looking into how films can effect fashions, as Alice in wonderland seems to have effected things on a huge scale at the moment! Ive seen that the big film for next years release is a new pirates of the Caribbean, so im starting to look into pirate culture and the females role on the pirate ship, and im getting some awesome images and ideas. i just need to put in the physical work and get it all down on paper so i can start making my design book and start designing from it! above is a recent promo image from agent provocateur for the pirate collection FIT!

Tuesday, 23 February 2010

critical studies

Im a bit freaked out. just realised today that i have 4 weeks until my essay for this year has to be in, with my critical studies portfolio too. oh dear oh dear! I'm going to have to get a move on and really push this one i think. I really want to get a high 2:1 realistically for this, as its 20 credits this year, as opposed to 10 credits last year. Writing is not my strong point, but i have given my tutor some pieces of my writing to look over and give me feedback on, so at least i will have something to work on. I have all my books out too, so all i really need to do now is actually start. They do say that the first 100 words is the hardest. 

Friday, 19 February 2010

research in Manchester.





I popped along to Manchester for the day on today to meet my good friend Sarah Davies, and i took the oppertunity to do some research for the project that we have just got the brief for. We have to make a design manual with all the graphics, information etc needed to make a whole collection from. i chose the designer Paul Smith BLACK.(womenswear) to aim my book at, so above are some photos from the inside of a concession in Selfridges. the season the book will be for is s/s11 so i need to do some further research into themes. i am thinking lace, the naked body, greys, dusty pinks, hazy turquoises.... well we shall see! 

Monday, 15 February 2010

James Rotherham sent me a link.


My friend James sent me a link to a designer he has been looking at, Raffaele Ascione, and it was nice to see that it wasn't a graduate of St.Martins, or LCF blah blah as i thought it was at a first glance. He Actually studied at the UCA in Rochester. well maybe there is hope for us all not studying in London!
To be honest i thought some of his collection pieces still look a little immature but i found his illustration work inspiring. I like the use of photography incorporated into the drawings in some of them, and i like how the line is continuous. 

I think i need to work on my illustration work as its not my strongest attribute! maybe I'll do a few practice drawings to get me in the mood. 
So last night i stayed up late trying to make a start on written work for my portfolio. Below is my first draft of a small piece of writing. I looked at a Guardian article on Kate Moss and her affect on Pro Ana groups and i looked at a piece of text by J.Craik, called 'The face of fashion'. I tried to use the triangulation method when writing that James Beighton has been telling us about.... i THINK i understand it, but who knows, I'm going to give him a copy to look over and give feedback. i really wan to improve on my writing skills in preparation for my dissertation next year, and practice makes perfect!!

Crit models draft

Kate Moss is, at the moment worth $72 million (Sunday times rich list 2009) since being scouted by Storm fashion agency in 1984 she has increasingly become a role model and an idol of her time. Kate Moss told researchers in an online interview in November 2009 that ‘Nothing tastes as good as skinny feels’ which caused many people to asks questions about her intellect, values, and compassion for her impressionable fans. Naomi Campbell stated:

‘People only take models at face value...we are women too; we have feelings.
When you have a very visual job, your appearance is taken to be the most important thing about you’ (quoted by L.-A. Jones 1992: 10)

This suggests that behind the scenes there is a struggle of power and individuality and for models and some want to be recognised as the person they are behind the face or the body. Not to forget that Naomi Campbell is considered a powerful model, with big contracts, and has earned her right to fight and to be listened to. Naomi Campbell does not want to be taken as face value and statements like the above quote from Kate Moss are only taking steps backwards in this war, and pro anorexia groups look up to Kate Moss as a role model, and statements like ‘Nothing tastes as good as skinny feels’ is dangerous.

One user of a pro anorexia website commented on the quote saying: ‘ she’s making unhealthy attitudes and behaviours seem somehow attractive’ (cited Guardian.co.uk 20/11/09, Alexandra topping) Kate Moss is visually attractive and her fans take on anything she says as attractive. Moss has grown up in the modelling industry and she may not know better, this comes from an industry that thrives on young looking women to sell garments; Moss has lived with this for twenty-six years and possibly moulded her personality into someone who thinks its ok to fuel anorexic thoughts. In the fashion world perfected beauty sells.
‘most of the successful models have conformed to western stereotypes of beauty, because in every country, blonde hair and blue eyes sell’ (Craik, the face of fashion, super models and super bodies)
If this fact has made Kate Moss who she is, then others will catch on to this. Moss has to keep her body skinny, toned, her face fresh, her hair and style perfect, just to keep her job and high profile. This then translates into other people’s lives that are affected by the media surrounding Moss. They feel they need to become skinnier, more toned etc to keep friends and status. The manipulative media can make insecure women feel they need to change themselves to be accepted socially.

But it comes to light that even models aspire to be more ‘perfect’:
They seem to be chronically dissatisfied with there looks. Even supermodel Cindy Crawford said, “ Its hard doing the runway show. You’re surrounded by the forty most beautiful women in the world, you see all your own imperfections and none of theirs”’(Craik, the face of fashion 1994, Original quote by Rudolph 1991: 74)
Many Models turn to cosmetic surgery to try and perfect the look they need to become more employable, this in return means they are not natural, and teenage girls looking at the models in the newspaper cannot achieve the look, which makes the cycle even more vigorous and more people get hurt.
Women aged between twelve and twenty are at the highest risk of developing anorexia.
‘At the age of forty, Lisa Taylor was reemployed by Calvin Klien, after she chided him for employing young models to promote clothes aimed at older women. The ploy was highly successful.’ (Craik, 1994 The face of fashion)
This could be interpreted as Taylor being greedy and not wanting to loose her job as a model now that she has aged. It could also be seen that there is a shift in peoples thinking and is a positive move forwards, that models do not have to have perfect skin and to be under twenty years old to sell clothes. This could be positive in that less young girls would feel the need to starve themselves to gain perfection, as there is less media pressure.
‘Liberal democrat MP Lynne Featherstone said the storm created by Moss’s comments reflected a desire for change in society’ (Guardian.co.uk 20/11/09)
Moss should take responsibility as a role model for teenagers across the world and not fuel pro anorexia groups with more statements that are harmful to themselves and the fashion industry. Moss comes across to the pubic as having no personality; she only has her looks.
‘Because you exist through others’ eyes. When they stop looking at you, there’s nothing left.’(Quoted by Rudolph 1991: 75 in Craik, 1994 The face of fashion)

800 word count at the moment.

Saturday, 13 February 2010

mmmm guilty pleasure....




I've been making some leather bags for the marketing week and Tout Nouvou. And I've loved playing around with the laser cutter making heart & crown shapes. They are lined with end of line Liberty cottons too, which are soooo beautiful it hurts! >_<

I've called them the 'pastry cutter' bags, and the inspiration comes from the garment i made from the last project, childish humor and innocence that just oozes fun.  
They are eco-conscious made from remnant leather & end of line cotton, they also have re-used vintage button fastening.

SWEET!

Thursday, 11 February 2010

Its nice to see the work payed off...

I got a big fat 79 for my project that was handed in last week. This is my best mark to date and it feels amazing that the work put in is recognized. the main points of my tutorial with Gemma were that my garment was creased and had a few marks on it. but the pattern cutting and sewing was of a very good standard. Gemma also seemed impressed that i had printed my own fabric to give it an individual look.

TIME TO CELEBRATE! 

Tuesday, 9 February 2010

Critical studies essay.


Im getting quite into crit at the moment, i think its better that we are more free to choose our topic this year for the essay (although, don't get me wrong, writing an essay still scares the sh*t out of me, its never been one of my strong points.) But i have decided to make a big effort this year, i really want to aim for a high 2:1 who knows, even a first...maybe??? ha! So i went to the library and took out lots of books to help me on my way. i feel a headache coming on already with all this reading to do, but at least its something I'm interested in. I am going to write about shopping at independent designers will make a positive impact on the environment due to the amount of CO2 complications there are dealing with mass production, the high street & disposable fashion. I've not really got to writing my question yet, but at least i have a theme. 

Over reading week I am going to concentrate on the portfolio aspect of critical studies, it was also give me the much needed practice for the essay.

Thursday, 4 February 2010

Hand in.



I handed in my project this afternoon and i think the finished result was very professional. It was the first time i have done a technical package to send off for manufacture, and the thought of doing it was daunting, but i managed with illustrator (in the end) and the finished result is amazing, i surprised myself in fact that i even managed to get it finished. I do think that i was very organized in this project though, more so than ever, so maybe I'm learning! 

Things i have improved on in this project:
  • time keeping
  • professionalism
  • design
  • research practices
Things i need to improve further:
  • Neatness when sewing
  • Finishing the garment, Steaming/removing marks etc.

Monday, 1 February 2010

Oh my!

.... how could i forget, today we had our enterprise presentation (P.E.S.T analysis...oh the joy!) but Bridget sat in on the end part, and her and Angie told us about something AMAZING...

The uni are putting on a craft/design fair for three days in April, and students can make things to sell and promote themselves at it. Its my short term dream come true! ha! It will be set out like a shop, not a market, which will give it a sense of a higher market level, it will be open to the public and the media will be invited as will other 'important people'. Hopefully i will make some well needed cash, and get my name out there.

So now i need to make some more designs, labels, business cards, cv's........

People tree.

Emma Watson has just launched her People Tree collection today, and in in love with the fact that they are getting more and more high profile people involved in the company that is really trying, and succeeding in creating sustainable fashion. The designs are pretty fab too! and not very expensive, the dress above (which i reallllly want) is £28. amazing!